For the first time in 14 years, I bought a pair of baggies.
For those of you that are maladjusted, baggies are boardshorts...or...the baggy shorts one would wear while surfing.
They are soft, black, and well....baggy.
On my way home from Gorge Performance I found myself drifting.
Where I live, where I surf, the baggies I bought are about completely useless. However they immediately reminded me of warm waters.
For a moment or two, I forgot where I was.
I dismissed the gray clouds and cooler temperatures, I even got excited about surfing tomorrow, until I remembered the 4 mil wetsuit hanging in my shower.
I dismissed the gray clouds and cooler temperatures, I even got excited about surfing tomorrow, until I remembered the 4 mil wetsuit hanging in my shower.
No, there will be no need for these until I depart.
I have not surfed warm water in 14 years.
That crystal blue warmth.
The sun on my bare back.
I know that my white ass is going to get fried where I am going, and I look forward to it.
I wonder what it will be like to come home after that week.
I wonder what it will be like to have my toes in that warm sand again.
The child in me screams for it.
The man inside me screams for it.
I wonder if I am leaving home, or leaving to go home.
1 comment:
Are you seriously going to wear black boardshorts there? DOOOOOOODE!
joo got some cahones mang!
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